SA at 42 mpg

Significantly more mobile now, I got in a hike along the Tsitsikamma NP coastline with it's cliffs and slopes plunging into the ocean. Along the way to Addo a couple hours away, I stopped by Jeffrey's Bay, a surfer's mecca and the site of the annual Billabong Surfing Competition. The ocean was a little tame, but I got to see a few surfers ride the infamous "Supertubes" while eating my fish and chips. It was cool, but the car is a double edged sword. I am seeing a lot more places now, a lot faster, but I have to make sure I don't start to get too concerned about trying to 'see as much as possible.' I can feel the hastiness encroaching.

I found an amazing B&B/campground buried in a little oasis at Addo. Without any camping gear (I wish I hadn't sent it all home!) I strung my hammock next to the car. The owner of Homestead B&B, Thurston, explained the rich 90 year history of the B&B which originally started off as a lodge for settlers. We chatted for quite awhile about the USA, as his son now works in North Dakota, and the upcoming SA elections this week. Similar to at least 4 other (white) local business owners I have talked to along the way, he expressed much concern about the potential of Zulu-run ANC party likely taking control. There are many potential affirmative action plans in the pipes, to add to those passed since apartheid, that have caused many white people to leave SA, along with their money. There is some concern more such actions will promote a 'white flight.' A few of the people I talked to, hypothesized a future of SA similar to the downward spiral of places like Zimbabwe. I am generally ignorant of the culture and politics of this country, but in my eyes, one of the stark contrasts of this country relative to China (besides the obvious) is the direction of growth. Everywhere I went in China, I felt a sense of frenzied growth. Here, the predominant feeling I am left with is one of stagnation, if not decline. There is little sense of development or direction. I don't know, maybe this is just a righting period for SA and maybe the ANC will take the country in new, exciting places. Nonetheless, considering SA is the most developed nation of Africa and that it contains 15% of the continents GDP, I imagine these elections will be an important crux point not just for South Africa, but sub-saharan Africa as a whole. The next morning I got up early (I was cold anyway) to hit Addo Elephant NP. In my little go-cart i drove the somewhat rough dirt roads of the park for four hours. You are not allowed to get out of your car, and after having a lion circle my car, I was totally down with that. Within the few hours I was there I saw over 70 elephants, 2 lions and 15 zebras along with slews of warthogs, kukus, markeets and birds. This park pails in comparison to the size of the many other parks in Africa, but it was pretty cool for me to see these animals in the wild for the first time. As an added bonus, it only cost $11.
From Addo, I took several back-country secondary roads to Hogsback. The main roads are pretty good, but the secondary roads (which are main connections) are often dirt and gravel and in the go-cart I feel like I am in some Euro rally race. I pulled into Hogsback perched up on the mountains at 1300 m. It's a bit of a hippies' retreat but the vistas are stunning, particularly the the adjacent mountain which resembles the pointed, hair-raised back of a warthog. I planned to knock out some good hikes the next morning, but the rain was brutal and showed no signs of letting up so I headed the go-cart for Coffee Bay.

Moving along the coast NE from Cape Town, you drive through all these large swathes of area with intriguing names, such as the Garden Route, Shipwreck Coast and The Karoo. And intriguing they are, with each new region looking entirely different than the former. I have been following the windy N2 which offers spectacular views along a 2-lane highway where the average traffic speed averages 70-100 mph. Moving down to Coffee Bay brought me into the heart of the Wild Coast. Rightfully named, the 1.5 hour punishing drive down the potholed rode offered spectacular views of large rolling hills dotted with the small green and pink round houses of the Xhosa people. Besides being incredibly friendly, they are also incredibly laid back. So much so that the drive required diligent focus to dodge (in this order of frequency) people, potholes, cows, goats and horses. White-knuckled, I finally arrived at the little super-hippie backpackers (a common theme for South African hostels) nestled in tiny Coffee Bay. The hike the next morning along the coast gave a panorama of golf-course like green slopes rolling down to the rocky shores - very dramatic.

From here I commenced the long drive up to the southern Drakensburgs. However, the drive goes by quite quick because it is all so remarkabley scenic with NO haze whatsoever! The views are punctuated by small towns in which all of sudden you are breaking from 85 mph to 10 mph as you enter streets flooded with people. Being election week, I roll down the windows and stop a bit to watch/listen to the parades and singing supporters for various parties - You thought the US 2008 elections were boisterous! Unfortunately, my camera batteries were dead and I couldn't get any pics/video. I have also been able to liven-up the drives by picking up hitchhikers. However, I do not think it is fair to give them that label, as it seems half the country (all black) rely on free rides not as transients, but just people going about their daily routines. Exiting every town there are typically dozens of people trying to hail rides to the next town to get supplies or what not. I only stop to pick up the ones that are by themselves or have just one child. Iniitally, I was a little concerned what I was getting into, but everyone has been incredibly friendly, and those that speak english, very interesting.

Now I am in Himeville, just south of Lesotho. My plan was to work through Lesotho, but the road over the mountain pass is accessible only with serious 4WD right now - the go-cart doesnt stand a chance! Rather, I am going to stay here a little while and see what I can find. I overloaded this post with pics because right now this computer is having issues with my flash drive. It might be a few days before I get the pics up from the last several days.